Siachen Glacier
just north of the Line of Control
between India
and Pakistan.
At 70 km (43 mi) long, it is the longest glacier
in the Karakoram and second-longest in the world's non-polar areas. It falls
from an altitude of 5,753 m (18,875 ft) above sea level at its head at Indira Col
on the China border down to 3,620 m (11,875 ft) at its terminus.
The
Siachen Glacier lies immediately south of the great watershed
that separates the Eurasian Plate from the Indian subcontinent in the extensively glaciated
portion of the Karakoram sometimes called the "Third Pole". The
glacier lies between the Saltoro Ridge
immediately to the west and the main Karakoram range to the east. The Saltoro
Ridge originates in the north from the Sia Kangri peak on the China border in
the Karakoram range. The crest of the Saltoro Ridge's altitudes range from
5,450 to 7,720 m (17,880 to 25,330 feet). The major passes on this ridge are,
from north to south, Sia La at 5,589 m (18,336 ft), Bilafond La
at 5,450 m (17,880 ft), and Gyong La
at 5,689 m (18,665 ft). The average winter snowfall
is 10.5 m (35 ft) and temperatures can dip to −50 °C (−58 °F). Including all
tributary glaciers, the Siachen Glacier system covers about 700 km2
(270 sq mi).
humans would come to inhabit it round the ythoughtear. But the Army trainers at theNORTH PULU: Longstaff Arthur Hened and Lt. Singsby, both British nationals, who discovered the 72-km-long Siachen Glacier at a height of more than 20,000 feet above sea level in 1909, would have never Siachen base camp make that possible today by imparting soldiers the skills to live on the highest war zone in the world.
As each soldier arrives at the base camp, which is the main transit point for soldiers coming to serve on the Siachen, a lengthy acclimatisation regimen is lined up for him. Each is taken to the North Pulu camp, situated few kilometres ahead of the base camp at some 20,000 feet, which is also the height of the tallest peaks of the glacier. A soldier gets 15 days to get used to low oxygen conditions and the cold. This is a familiarisation session. According to Army doctors, the usual consequences of low oxygen levels and the cold are nasal bleeding, breathlessness, loss of appetite, mountain sickness, High Altitude Pulmonary Oedema (HAPO) and High Altitude Cerebral Oedema which is potentially fatal.
Says Colonel Tejinder Jaggi: "A healthy soldier fighting on the Siachen is the combined effort of several units of the Army — which fact normally remains unnoticed. A lot of effort goes into training soldiers for a three-month tenure. Our purpose in bringing the soldiers to the North Pulu camp is to have a team of doctors keep a watch over their health as they are prepared for a tenure on the glacier. Unlike on the glacier, here we have the best medical back-up at our disposal and any kind of weather-related problem can be treated."
The soldiers take complete rest on arrival, as any physical activity would have harmful effects at that point. Major Rahul Sharma, an instructor, says: "These are abnormal conditions and my experience of two years has shown that anyone violating our medical instructions instantly falls ill. There is no room for complacency.
During the 15-day acclimatisation period, soldiers are taught the basic skills to brave the weather. Attention is given to guarding the skin as the main problems reported while on the glacier are related to frostbite on the nose and chin. Even decaying of feet is common. Training is provided in the use of equipment including special clothing, to combat the cold.
Helping cope with health problems relating to low-pressure conditions is another feature of the training. Training in the use of pressure bags is provided: these can be used in contingency situations to create normal atmospheric conditions to help a suffering colleague.
After 15 days, the soldiers return to base camp. A three-week-long second round of training, mostly related to working on the glacier, is given. Here, the training is mainly related to walking on the glacier, climbing the snow-capped slopes whose gradient is at times 90 degrees.
Captain Yadav, who returned from a stint at the Central glacier a few days ago, recalls that on the glacier every step is a walk between life and death. He talked of how a wrong step almost cost him his life as he slipped several metres down the slope before being rescued by a group of jawans after two hours.
The glacier is basically a frozen river, and walking on it is a risky proposition. The Nubra drains from the glacier and joins the Shyok near Khalsar. "You never know what awaits you," says Col. Tejinder. There are spots where one has to climb on 200 feet of snow along a 90-degree gradient. Access to the glacier from the Indian side is more difficult compared to the Pakistan side. There are posts that take 21 days to reach and are situated a few metres from the posts of the Pakistan troops.
Siachen Glacier was technically under the control of Pakistan as most of the mountaineering expedition permits were granted by the Government of Pakistan. This area was far from the military presence but on 13th April, 1984 the Operation Meghdoot was launched by the Kumaoun Regiment of the Indian Army and occupied the top area of the Siachen Glacier. As a result of which Pakistan also responded with the quick deployment of her Army but meanwhile the control of the Sia La and Bilfond La passes were taken by the Indian troops. Gyong La pass remained under the control of Pakistan but since then it has become the mountain warfare between these two countries. However all the access to the neighboring high Mountain Peaks is blocked by the Pakistan Army and whole the expeditions pass through the approval of the Pakistani Government.
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In the eastern Karakoram Range, just adjacent to the Line of Control, the second largestglacier outside the Polar Regions lies with all of its glory and esteem. This is known asSiachen Glacier, the land of wild roses which is a word from Balti language. Sia means “roses” while Chen denotes “something in abundance”. This name was associated to this no man’s land for its lower basin to be the botanic garden of exotic flowers and thorny shrubs which grow on the rocky outcrops. The military presence was out of question before 1980’s as it was only the home of majestic peaks and glacial masses far from the human inhabitation. It lies right in the middle of the Saltoro Ridge which originates in the north from the Sia Kangri peak on the China border in the Karakoram Range. Due to its extensive glacial geography sometimes it is also referred as the “Third Pole” and it separates the Eurasian Plate from the Indian Subcontinent. Siachen Glacier is almost 75 Km long but the whole of Siachen Glacier system including its tributary ice bergs cover an area about 700 km2 (270 sq mi). Siachen Glacier is also the water source of the Nubra River of Ladakh which falls into the Shyok River. Shyok ultimately drains into the great Indus River.
“The Land of Wild Roses” is now the highest battlefield of the world and no permanent demarcation of the Line of Control has resulted into a long dispute between these two nations. Currently, the situation is that neither Pakistan Army can go up to the glacier nor the Indian troops can come down. According to the statistics, both armies have spent trillions and suffered from the 6,000 personal causalities of the soldiers. Major causalities are the result of the severe weather conditions. The climate of this area is completely inhospitable and avalanche-prone terrains have claimed more lives than the gunfire.
A major catastrophe occurred on 10th of April, 2012, when the Military Camp of Pakistan was destroyed by the hit of a monstrous avalanche and more than 130 Pakistani soldiers were buried over there. Both sides are apparently agreed to vacate this area from their respective troops but practically they are reluctant to take the first step. There is no real justification to militarize the Siachen Glacier and this is extremely better to restore the Siachen Glacier in its preposition. The huge and useless expenses which have occurred in all of this military exercise are criticized by the philanthropists of the both sides.
Another major concern is the ecological disturbance of this area as the glaciers are melting on a rapid rate. Both of the Governments must consider that their bloodthirsty campaign is putting the population of the both countries under risk of catastrophic floods and droughts .Theenvironment is being polluted and the massive area is degraded. On the other side the Global Warming has also significantly reduced the Siachen Glacier over recent decades. This place was the habitat of Snow Leopards and Snow Bears but now their dens are being eliminated due to habitat destruction and war. The Indian Government has installed a long Oil pipeline on its side along the Siachen Glacier and both of the armies are continuously using chemicals to melt and cut through the perfect glacial ice to build their bunkers, helipads and airfields.
The people of both of these great nations really want to establish the Siachen Glacier, the land of wild roses as a real Peace Park. This area can be converted into an environment friendly national park. Both of the countries have enough land to house their people and now this is the time to move forward and forget the past. Otherwise our upcoming generations will only find this as a past natural wonder in their geographical literature.
